An interview with Audrey, our cruise director on Jakare Liveaboard
Audrey, after so many years sailing in Indonesia, does this country still manage to surprise you?
Oh yes — and that’s exactly what makes Indonesia so magical! Even after all these years exploring the eastern islands, it still holds a sense of mystery. Everyone knows the famous names like Komodo and Raja Ampat, and the more “insider” destinations like Banda, Alor, or Halmahera… but sometimes, when you step off the usual routes, you stumble upon places so beautiful they take your breath away.
Is that what happened with this exploration cruise?
Exactly! We set off on a cruise between Kendari and Luwuk, on the western side of Sulawesi, with our Australian partner SSV, who specializes in kayak expeditions.
Honestly, it was such a wonderful surprise — a mini Raja Ampat on the water! No other liveaboard goes there yet; it’s a totally untouched area, far from any kind of nautical tourism.
Can you tell us where exactly you went?
We started from Kendari, on the southeast coast of Sulawesi, and sailed north to Luwuk. Between the two: a chain of islands, coves, lagoons, and limestone cliffs… landscapes that just leave you speechless.
When’s the best time to go?
From late September to early November is ideal, over about 8 to 10 days of cruising. The sea is calm, the light is magical, and the colors are unbelievably pure.
Do you think this cruise could become a regular destination for Jakare?
Maybe — but probably only with SSV. This time it was really an exploration trip, a special privilege that only a few people will get to experience. And that’s what makes it so exciting: discovering secret and fleeting places.
We won’t plan diving cruises there, but it’s truly an amazing destination for non-divers who already know Indonesia’s classic spots and are looking for something completely different.
How did you prepare for an expedition in such an unknown region?
The idea came from SSV, but most of the prep work was on my side. I poured a lot of curiosity — and a bit of improvisation — into it! I researched on Google, Instagram, nautical charts, and talked to other liveaboards… but even our own crew — most of whom are from Sulawesi — had never been there!
We explored several spots: Labengke, Tarape, Sombori (with its amazing jellyfish lake), and of course Banggai, which we already knew from a previous year.
Tell us what you discovered out there!
It’s a region full of caves, some underwater, others you can walk into; limestone islets that remind me of Raja Ampat; white sandy beaches with powdery-soft sand; turquoise waters, and spectacular viewpoints everywhere.
And then there’s the absolute highlight — the jellyfish lake! A vast lake filled with thousands of non-stinging jellyfish, white and orange, drifting around you as you swim among them. It’s surreal!
Any surprises along the way?
Oh yes! Breathtaking landscapes, hidden lagoons you can explore by kayak, beautiful birds to watch at sunrise, that golden morning light that makes everything glow… And the caves — some are so impressive they leave you speechless. You can really feel that there are still undiscovered corners out there.
But I imagine not everything was perfect?
You’re right — there were a few less happy surprises too.
In the Labengke and Tarape areas, the underwater world is damaged: few fish, very little marine life. Overfishing, sometimes even dynamite fishing, and the nickel mines along the coast have taken a toll. From the sea, you can see deforested hills replaced by open-pit mines — it breaks your heart.
But around Sombori, things were better: a bit of current, more nutrients, healthy corals, and beautiful snorkeling spots. And one curious detail — there are quite a few abandoned hotels on some islands, silent witnesses of a tourism project that never really took off.
What kind of travelers would you recommend this adventure to?
Not really for divers looking for big fish!
But it’s perfect for kayakers, nature lovers, snorkelers, families, and those who love hiking, birdwatching, exploring, and relaxing on deserted beaches.
It’s a gentle and poetic adventure, focused more on discovery than performance.
You mentioned a well-kept secret in Banggai… come on, tell us!
(laughs) Well, I won’t reveal everything… but on one of the Banggai islands, we found an incredible fjord-lagoon, so stunning it almost made us cry — a turquoise waterway lined with mangroves and white sand, where you can drift in with the tide and glide out with the next.
And it’s also the kingdom of the Banggai cardinalfish, an endemic and very rare species that you can’t even find everywhere in the archipelago. That fish actually inspired the name of one of our cabins on Jakare!
And finally, what’s the arrival town, Luwuk, like?
A wonderful surprise! It’s a small, lively, youthful town, full of cafés along the water, street food stalls, fresh fruit juices, durian (for the brave!), and rojak.
There are even beautiful waterfalls to explore nearby. It’s welcoming, authentic, and full of life — a perfect place to end such an adventure.
A final word to wrap up?
This cruise reminded me exactly why I love Indonesia so much: it’s endless, full of surprises and hidden treasures.
Sailing between Kendari and Banggai felt like turning the page of a new chapter in a book I thought I already knew.
And honestly… what a joy to write the first lines of it! 🌺
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