The Jakare floating on open blue water under a bright sky, with a forested island in the background.

Audrey’s Travel Diary: New Odyssey to the Banggai and Togean Islands

Each time the Jakaré sets sail, a new adventure begins, and this journey to the Banggai and Togean Islands is undoubtedly one of the most magical. It’s a world that feels untouched, almost timeless, and nothing could better satisfy our thirst for discovery.

Banggai: Land of Mystical Lakes and Hidden Beauty

As soon as we arrived in Banggai, I felt the pure and tranquil energy of these islands, spread across three regions—Banggai, Banggai Islands, and Banggai Laut. A multitude of islets, small villages, and a wilderness so dense and raw that it feels like the ends of the earth. And then there’s Paisu Pok Lake, or “the Black Water,” which has fascinated me ever since I first saw it. It seems to reflect an ancient mystery… but in reality, its dark color comes from deep green plants on the lake bed, creating a shadowy illusion. The lake itself is actually turquoise blue and crystal-clear, with visibility exceeding 40 meters. Snorkeling or free-diving in these transparent freshwater waters is amazing!

The calm waters of the lagoons around Banggai conceal a vibrant world, from turquoise seabeds covered in seaweed to thick mangroves. In this preserved paradise, a conservation foundation was recently created to protect the unique biodiversity, especially the endemic Banggai cardinalfish, a graceful species we spot schooling elegantly in the anemones.

Pulau Dua: A Pristine Underwater Sanctuary

On our itinerary, we stopped at Pulau Dua, between Sulawesi and Banggai. Beneath the water, it’s a diver’s paradise! Strong currents reveal colorful reefs and spectacular pinnacles. We were also lucky to enjoy beautiful muck dives, where rare creatures like seahorses and frogfish hide. It’s so calm, so remote, that every dive feels like a private exploration.

Togean: A Meeting with the Bajau, the Sea Nomads

Further north, at the heart of Tomini Bay, the 56 islands of the Togean form an archipelago covered in dense forests and surrounded by extensive reefs that stretch for miles, sheltering numerous marine species like hawksbill turtles and dugongs. The story of the Bajau, the sea nomads, still echoes here: once perpetual travelers, they have now settled in stilt villages, like Malenge and Bomba. I’ve even heard that their incredible free-diving ability—sometimes several minutes on a single breath—stems from naturally expanded lungs!

The Togean Islands are also a diver’s paradise. Secret lagoons and untouched mangroves open up to dizzying drop-off reefs, perfect for both snorkeling and diving. The island of Taupan, for example, resembles a natural donut with walls plunging down over 100 meters—a spectacle of corals and fish in a breathtaking deep blue.

Pulau Una-Una: The Ultimate Encounter with Raw Nature

Finally, there’s the island of Una-Una, crowned with its active volcano. Here, nature’s power is evident everywhere: black sand beaches, wild waterfalls, and underwater, vibrant pinnacles teeming with both large and small marine life. It’s alive with activity; one could say it’s thriving beneath the water. Visibility here is amazing, easily 30 meters, allowing us to admire both the small and the large on these magnificent drop-offs. To cap off our journey, I took the more adventurous guests for a hike to the volcano’s summit. What an experience! It’s as if the island’s very energy envelops us, and that sensation stays with us long after we’ve returned aboard.

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